You may find this hard to believe (or not), but I usually buy artichokes not to eat, but solely for the purpose of décor. An elegant bowl filled with these regal green globes, contrasted by a few lemons and sitting on the kitchen counter will make anyone look like a serious chef.

The artichoke comes from the sunflower family and anyone who has tried to eat one without first knowing a little about its structure, will quickly realize that it is also a thistle.

The green, pinecone-shaped globe which we are most familiar with is actually the flower head of the plant. This bud is protected with over-lapping layers of tough leaves (bracts), many of which have prickly tips.

As the leaves are stripped away, the centre of the bud is reached, and the immature purplish thistle is found, surrounded by inedible pale green leaves. This is called the “choke.”

The choke sits on the base of “heart” of the bud which is the most meaty and tasty part of the plant. A pad of tiny hairs still need to be scraped off the heart before it can be enjoyed. This is definitely one vegetable that won’t be taken easily.

Centuries ago, the Greeks and Romans consumed a close relative of the artichoke, the cardoon. The flower bud of this thistle could not be eaten; only the leaves, stems and roots. The cardoon is still very much a part of regional Italian cooking, but in the 15^th Century, a hybrid of this thistle we now call the Globe artichoke, was discovered and it quickly became an integral part of Mediterranean cuisine. Imagine a classic antipasto platter without marinated artichoke. Or pizza, past, and frittatas.

Artichoke became a food favoured by the aristocracy, perhaps because they had the time to idle away hours eating, and didn’t have to run off in search of their next meal. Since the time of the Renaissance, the artichoke, because of its beautiful structure and appeal to the eye, was a favourite subject for still-life painters. Today, many European dishwares and fabrics are decorated with this design.

While we are most familiar with the Globe, there are many other varieties what vary in size, shape, and colour; some being purple.

While Mediterranean regions continue to be the largest producers of the plant, California is now a major producer of not only the Globe but of other specialty varieties as well. Unfortunately, you will probably only find these other varieties at the local farmers’ markets and perhaps some import shops.

I had always left it to my mother-in-law to wow us with a first course of the steamed globe, served wither cold with mayonnaise or vinaigrette to dip, or hot with melted butter or Hollandaise. Because the Sorrentis are a family that loves to talk, and it often will take hours to actually get us to sit down at the table for dinner, we always enjoy hors d’oeuvres that you can pick at and savour slowly while the conversation carries on. The artichoke is not for those in a rush.

It was Mother’s Day, and because my boys had been working hard all day, I decided to treat the family to my perfect meal. I planked a salmon and decided to tackle an artichoke starter. I came close to asking my mother-in-law for advice but, well, you know how it is! So, out came my trusty and somewhat crusty copy of The Joy of Cooking. I had a dozen lemons handy just in case I decided to go for the still-life-on-the-counter thing as Plan B.

The first step in cooking an artichoke is to get over your fear of cooking an artichoke. They look so intimidating, with their armour of tightly closed bracts. Once you understand the artichoke and its make-up, you will understand exactly how it should be attacked.

The artichoke needs to be steamed. To prepare the artichoke, first trim the stem flush so that the bulb can sit upright in your steamer. Pluck off some of the tougher leaves around the base. You may also trim each bract of its prickly point and the top inch of the bulb.

Although purists might argue that you have destroyed the visual appeal, this will make it easier and pleasanter to handle. Keep lots of lemon juice handy, where you cut the bulb, you will get blackening without applying the juice. A weak vinegar solution will also do the trick.

Lemon juice should be added to the cooking water to help maintain the colour and also add flavour.

Once the artichoke is cooked, approximately 30-45 minutes or when you can easily pull off a bottom leaf, it is drained and when the bulb is cool enough to handle, you can open up the bud and scoop our the choke with a spoon. This will leave you with a “cup” that can be stuffed with and endless variety of fillings. Another treat is to cut the cooked globe in half and grill it on the BBQ. Or, more simply, present it chilled on a platter with an assortment of dips and fresh lemon wedges.

If you are lucky, you might come across some beautiful purple artichoke flowers at the Gabriola market later this summer. They make a stunning floral display with their cousin, the sunflower.

AS with all “difficult” foods, I just can’t imagine the first idiot who thought to himself, “Hmmm, that looks interesting. I think I’ll try eating it.”