
Earth Food
Cooking by its nature is experimentation: sometimes you discover a wonderful formula and sometimes you kill the lab rats! Lately I have had a yen for earthy flavours. This may be due to having just read Stanley Park, but for whatever reason, I just had to do something with the burdock root I came across recently in my health food store. Unfortunately, the troops at home do not share my sense of culinary wanderlust. Sometimes I have to resort to blind studies.
If I told my kids that I was trying to feed them the root of a plant that they would normally find along the river banks, covered with nasty burrs, they would think that I had finally gone round the bend. They had already endured my taste-testing sessions with hemp foods and obscure ancient grains like quinoa and kasha, and although I think that they actually enjoy tofu now, this would be my biggest challenge to-date.
Burdock is one very ugly root. It certainly didn’t help my cause any when my childish sense of humour kicked in and I lay a piece of this muddy stick with its fibrous ends on the stairs where our kitty sometimes leaves his token of disapproval. ( If you don’t have a cat, you can ask someone who does have one what a cat will do when you upset him.) Both boys were fooled into thinking that kitty had left a particularly large statement on this occasion and Paddy wrapped it in paper towel and threw it out. Liam just stepped over it; it was too gross to touch. As you could well imagine, trying to feed the boys burdock after this little prank was not going to happen without a little subterfuge.
I had hastily purchased the burdock before really reading up on this root and realized that I hadn’t really chosen a good piece. There are two species of edible burdock. The wild North American variety which was the one I had purchased at my health food store, and the Asian species, which is called gobo by the Japanese. There is a very noticeable difference between these two types. The North American variety is generally shorter, 4-12 inches long and looks more like a crooked stick. The Japanese variety can be up to 3 feet long and is thicker in circumference. Whichever kind you buy, make sure that the flesh is firm, wrinkle-free and the root is heavy. The boys were in luck; the burdock that I had purchased was already turning prune-like and I would have to get more if I wanted to give it favourable odds in the cooking crap-shoot.
I went this time to the Japanese grocer next door to the health food store. After looking bedazzled into a cooler filled with strange sticks and roots and fungi, I finally picked up a package of what looked to be four, 6" pieces of the root I wanted. I asked the vendor if this was burdock and he said, “Gobo?” Luckily I had done my reading and knew that this was the Japanese word for burdock.
I had originally planned to use the root in a stir-fry, but as it turned out, we were having guests for dinner and I was planning a kasha pilaf to go with lamb chops (and my fabulous apple chutney). I was fairly confident that the earthy and somewhat sweet flavour of the burdock would work well with carrots in a pilaf, and it did. The flavour of burdock is described often in literature like artichoke heart. I really found it closer to parsnip and turnip, but it definitely has its own distinct flavour. The root will look extremely dirty, but don’t scrub all of this away; it is the brown skin that contains all of the nutrition of the vegetable.
Burdock is rich in manganese and other minerals and the major (50%) component of the plant root is made up of inulin, a carbohydrate which has the ability to control blood sugar levels and is also known to stimulate the immune system. It has been used in traditional medicines for a variety of conditions from rheumatoid arthritis symptoms, eczema, and indigestion.
Burdock can be used in a variety of ways but should always be cooked first to remove some of the bitterness. It gave the kasha dish a wonderful earthy and nutty flavour. It may not have been a hit with the kids, but it was with the adults. Even Jordan had seconds. Now that is truly a testament to a successful experiment.
Jordan and I went for a walk the next morning down by the river, and I have to say that I felt like a true earth mother, when we passed by some burdock plants, covered in those horrible burs, and I knew that I had been eating the root of that very same plant the night before. It gives me a secure feeling that if I were ever lost in the woods, I would know at least one food that could sustain me.
In the United Kingdom, Burdock and Dandelion soda has been a popular treat for years. It is described as tasting somewhat like Root Beer and has a strong liquorice flavour. It is now available in Canada. And, no, I haven’t made my kids try any. They are getting a bit leery of some of my experiments. As another aside, I noticed at the Farmers’ Market this fall, Jocelyn of Auld Farms was selling burdock apple cider.