I recently stood in line at the express checkout behind a woman who was apparently having a kohlrabi emergency. She seemed out of breath, as she cradled a half-dozen of these green vegetable bulbs in her arms; she couldn’t pay and get out of the store fast enough. I had to wonder what could possibly constitute a kohlrabi crisis, and furthermore, what she was planning to do with them when she did get home. I couldn’t imagine what I would do with one, let alone six.

            I was intrigued, and so after asking around (not as in “around in the streets”, but here in our catering kitchen,) and after doing a little reading, I decided to try kohlrabi in the coleslaw dish I was planning to make for a dinner party. It came to me later that I could really call it “kohlslaw”, since both cole and kohl are prefixes meaning cabbage.

            Kohlrabi is from the same family as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower. Although it does appear to be a root, like a turnip, it is actually a swelling of the stem above ground. Once peeled, it can be used in dishes where you might use cabbage, turnip or broccoli stems. Its flavour is similar to a mild turnip and it can be sautéed, braised, steamed or eaten raw. The “rabi” in kohlrabi means turnip, which is why it is sometimes known as a cabbage turnip.

            Kohlrabi bulbs should be firm and a bright green without any bruises or cracks. If the leaves are still attached, they should also be firm and have no sign of yellowing. If the bulb appears to be turning into the Grinch Who Stole Christmas, right down to the tuft of hair on the top of his head, it is probably way past its prime! Ideally, as with any produce, it is best bought fresh from a local grower, with the leaves still attached. These leaves can also be used in stir-fries and salads. Practically, you aren’t likely to find this vegetable fresh- from- the- garden too often. As with any “unusual” vegetable, buy from a store that is more likely to have a high turnover in this item. Because kohlrabi is most popular in Asian cooking, you are likely to find the freshest selection in an oriental grocery store.

            I picked up some perfect looking bulbs in Chinatown and while I was there, picked up a daikon root. I was planning a vaguely Thai-inspired meal, starring a pepper-lime crusted marlin. I mixed finely dice kohlrabi, daikon, carrot, green onion and pickled ginger together with a wasabi vinaigrette to make a perfect side dish for the fish.

            While green kohlrabi is the most readily available and recognizable variety, there is also a purple one that can be found in some speciality stores. This variety has more flavour to it, but will be more expensive. Kohlrabi is also very popular in German and Eastern European cooking, where it is used in stews and soups, but it is now gaining popularity in North America as growers here start producing it and consumers become aware of its many uses.

            I still wonder what that woman’s “emergency” could have been. Maybe I’ll spot her on another day, when she isn’t in such a rush, and ask her.