When I think of lentils, I immediately picture exotic Indian or Middle Eastern dishes; curry and coriander; maybe some lamb; always something foreign. I never pictured Saskatchewan as the lentil capital of the world; largest exporter of this “exotic” little gem. It’s funny what you learn in the business section!

I readily admit that the lentil is not a big item in this family. Those bags of dirty-coloured pellets found in the dried bean section of any supermarket just don’t call out to me. I did go through a brief lentil period in my younger, vegetarian days; my “Diet for a Small Planet” days when I firmly believed that if I didn’t include lentils in my diet, I would keel over.

I attempted to feed my first son homemade vegetarian baby foods that included lentil pap, but I soon gave up; it was so unattractive, even I couldn’t eat it. My lentil consumption today is limited to a private enjoyment of canned lentils mixed with stewed tomatoes. Now that’s unattractive!

Lentils belong to a group of vegetables called dried legumes, or pulses. The word “pulse” is derived from the Latin puls, meaning grain or bean porridge. Pulses are the dried seeds of the legume family, which also includes beans (kidney, pinto, garbanzo, soy) and peas. Lentils grow in pods on a pea-like vine, but have only 2-3 seeds per pod. They are usually left on the vine to dry and then harvested with a combine, like wheat.

In Egypt and Israel, where the crop originated, there are records of lentils as far back as 7000 years. It spread throughout the Mediterranean, into Europe, India, China, and today is grown in North America. It is still a staple in the Middle East and India, especially as a meat substitute. For anyone on a strictly vegetarian diet, getting the proper amount of protein can be a problem. Both pulses and whole grains have protein, but neither of them is complete. By combining these two food groups, a complete protein is obtained. Lentils (skin on) are also a good source of fibre and folic acid, and low in fat.

I know that for most of us, in this carbohydrate-fearing world, the thought of mixing a legume with a grain seems over-kill, but think of Minestrone soup or Pasta e fagioli (beans), Caribbean and American Southwest rice and peas (beans), and bean burritos! In Egypt, a popular street food, Kosherie, is made from macaroni, lentils, and fried onions, dressed with hot sauce. The affinity of pulses to grains is a natural survival tool.

There are probably over 100 varieties of lentils in the world today: brown, pink, yellow, green, black (called Beluga because it looks like caviar). The problem with lentils has been that for too long, the only varieties we could purchase here, without going into speciality food markets, were the orange-coloured Red lentils, always sold skinned and split, or the khaki-coloured brown lentil. That’s too bad. Both of these lentils work fine for soups, stews and side dishes where texture and colour isn’t an issue.

Red and yellow lentils, also called “dal” (or “dahl”) the Hindi word for any legume that is skinned and split, are used to make the fragrantly spiced Indian porridge called dal. Flour from the yellow lentil is also used to make pappadams, the Indian equivalent of the Mexican tortilla.

Italy grows its own brown lentils which remain firm when cooked, and are used for side dishes, soups, and pasta dishes. Italians often simply cook the lentils in broth with pancetta and fennel, and serve them drizzled in good olive oil. In Italy, it is considered good luck to eat lentils on New Year’s Day, as the tiny discs are reminiscent of coins and promise a good year fiscally.

But the best lentils by far are the French Puy lentils, once grown only in France, but now also in North America. These pretty grey-green lentils are sometimes called Blue lentils. They are sold skin-on, remaining chewy and keeping their colour when cooked, making them ideal for cold salads or as an ingredient in other grain dishes.

Do not pre-soak lentils. They should be rinsed in cold water to separate out any “floaters.” The more liquid you use, the more you will dilute out the nutrients, so try 1-1/2 cups liquid per cup of lentils; you can always add more liquid later if needed. Once they come to a boil, bring immediately to a simmer and avoid stirring which can break them up.

In general, split yellow and red lentils will take 30 minutes to reach a mushy stage. Brown lentils can be kept firm, but need to be carefully watched, often 15 minutes is long enough. Pretend you are cooking pasta al dente. You can also mix brown lentils with rice to cook, which will keep the lentils whole and separate. Puy lentils can take about 30 minutes of simmering and remain firm. An older (drier) bag of lentils will take longer to cook than a freshly opened bag.

The great thing about lentils is that they act like a sponge and absorb any cooking liquid and seasoning. The French often use red wine, but a meat or vegetable broth can also be used, with any combination of favourite bouquet garni or dried herb sachet: garlic, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, cardamom, fennel, thyme, tarragon, bay, coriander. Moosewood has a terrific recipe for a red lentil dip with curry, coconut milk and raisins I want to try.

If you are into the raw food movement, lentils can also be sprouted, but don’t try to sprout those packaged red ones; no amount of nurturing can force a split legume to sprout.