I have come to the enlightened conclusion that I will never be able to fully understand the what, how, or why of this ancient condiment. But here is my best shot.

Miso is not tofu; I had to get that distinction clearly in my mind. Tofu is a curdled soy bean preparation, some would say with little flavour. Miso is a fermented paste generally made of rice and soy beans (komemiso), but also barley or rye with soy (mugimiso), or soy alone (mamemiso). Aspergillus mould is first cultured in rice (or other grain) to make a starter, or koji, which is added to cooked soybeans. The only other ingredients are sea salt and water. And no one could ever accuse miso of having “little flavour”!

At one time, most Japanese households made their own miso, which was eaten every day, often at breakfast. Traditionally, the fermentation process took place in wooden barrels stored at ambient (natural) temperature, often using a family koji that was passed down from generation to generation. Vagabond bacteria were allowed to make themselves at home, just to keep things interesting.

The Japanese credit miso with everything from low rates of cancer (some of these claims have been scientifically proven), healthy digestive systems, longevity, and even the beautiful skin of Japanese women. In Japan, a bowl of miso a day is like the proverbial apple: it keeps the doctor away.

This really shouldn’t be too surprising, when you consider the high nutritional value of soy beans: high quality complete protein; essential fatty acids; Vitamin B; carbohydrates. Everything from the reduction of prostate cancer to decreased cholesterol has been linked to soy.

 Above all, miso is a living food. The fermentation enzymes and live culture not only aid in digestion, but have anti-oxidant properties that are key to cancer prevention.  To preserve this culture, and the inherent benefits, miso should always be kept in the fridge and never killed by boiling in water.

Miso ranges from sweet and white (pale yellow), to red, and then to dark brown. As the ingredients change from mainly white rice to mostly soybeans, fermentation time increases and both colour and flavour become more intense.

In the warmer regions of Japan, where white rice was always more available than soybeans, miso was made from predominately white rice. This required much shorter fermentation periods, as little as a few weeks, and produced a miso very light in colour, very sweet, and not too salty.

In the colder regions of Japan, the more readily available soybeans were the principle ingredient, and the fermentation took a minimum of one year, with two and three considered best. (Fermentation naturally takes longer at lower temperatures.) This also required more salt added to preserve the mixture from spoiling, and the end product was very dark, very pungent, and very salty. Barley was often used in the poorest households.

The general “rule” in Japan for using miso is that lighter miso (aged less) are eaten in the summer, while darker, more aged, funkier tasty miso are left for the cold months. This really makes sense, as the milder, sweeter miso are better suited to fresh fruits and vegetables, salads, and other foods we associate with warm weather. The more robust tasting and darker coloured miso is a better match for stews, hearty winter soups, and roasts.

Today in Japan, there are few households making their own miso the traditional natural way. When you buy commercial miso at a good health food store, you will find that it says “Naturally fermented.” This is a cross between traditional and industrial production. The miso is aged in wooden vats, but the temperature will be controlled to speed up the process and maintain consistency, and the koji will be a controlled preparation of aspergillus; no strays allowed! It is always sold unpasteurized.

The bulk of miso mass-produced today for the Asian market is done totally in factories; all stainless steel and perfectly uniform. It is generally sold pasteurized, likely considered more a condiment now than a health food.

Miso can be used in many ways; the simplest is to add it to a soup or stew like any vegetable bouillon paste. A simple miso soup can be made by stirring into warm water the miso to taste, and adding tofu, cabbage, shitake mushrooms, and green onion. Just remember that you are adding enough salt to the dish with the miso, so resist that extra pinch of salt.

Sweet, white miso is popular for making dips and sauces. Salad dressings can be prepared with a few tablespoons of white miso, water, apple cider vinegar, oil, ginger, and garlic. At Harvest Thyme, I recently bought a tub of Amano miso, a white rice miso. I can eat that one straight from the container on my finger. Of course, it is loaded with carbohydrates and will provide less of the health benefits of a two-year miso but it is a good start for the less adventuresome.

Well, I hope this helped you de-mystify miso. I know; not exactly another Da Vinci Code, but perhaps better for your health.