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Mortar and Pesto

Let’s have a show of hands. How many of you, after your trip to the first Farmers’ market of the year or a visit to Rosheen and Bob’s fabulous Good Earth Market, developed an urgent need to rush home and create something, anything, from this fresh, garden bounty.

            Well, my husband, Jordan, certainly succumbed to the urge. I watched him curiously as he stood in front of one vegetable vendor, seemingly mesmerized. His trance was likely induced by the powerful fragrance emanating from bins of glorious, lusciously green, basil. I could hear the wheels turning, and knowing his fondness for pesto, it wasn’t hard to guess what was going through his mind. Luckily for him, I knew I had a good supply of pine nuts at home.

            Driving around the island later that day, finishing off some chores, it became disconcerting (and probably dangerous) as the warming basil began to fill the truck with its seductive aroma. I began to imagine the decadent taste of basil, garlic, and olive oil, spread over fresh bread, pasta, or simply on the tip of my finger.

            While pesto is not always made from basil, pine nuts and Parmesan cheese, traditional pesto is. Traditional pesto should also be made using a mortar and pestle, an item I once associated only with pharmacies, but now very much an important tool for the complete kitchen. The word “pestle,” and consequently, the Italian pesto and its French equivalent, pistou, come form the Latin word pinsere: “to beat, pound.” In Italy, pesto purists believe that the only true way to get the rich flavour of basil properly married to the other ingredients is to slowly grind the leaves with a pestle. Right, I’ll be doing that real soon! Isn’t that why God created the food processor? Jordan, of Italian descent, was eager to taste his sauce; he used a processor.

Our first test of his emerald ambrosia was as a topping on a frittata. It was scrumptious. A few days later we had an equally delicious seafood pasta. Pesto will keep in the fridge for several days. It can also be frozen, but add the freshly grated cheese just before you use it

            . Here are just a “few” of the ways that pesto can be used: to season boiled new potatoes or rice; as a topping for pizzas, crostini or frittatas; a stuffing for fish or chicken; a sauce for any seafood or pasta dish; mixed with ricotta as a layer in lasagna; a topping for broiled tomatoes; added to sour cream to make a vegetable dip or sandwich spread; mixed with olive oil and vinegar as a salad dressing; a seasoning for vegetable soups and chowders. And those are just some ideas. Not a bad condiment to have hanging around the kitchen.

            Jordan is already planning dinner for next weekend, based upon buying more basil. But I reminded him that there is more to pesto than basil. Pesto recipes have gone beyond the traditional and may contain almost any fresh herb in your garden, often combined with spinach or sun-dried tomatoes. Herbs such as cilantro, mint, oregano, thyme, and sage can be used. There are also a variety of nuts that can be used, including walnuts, pistachios and hazelnuts. The cheese used should always be a sharp cheese, but try some of the other Italian cheeses such as Romano, Asiago or Provolone. The two constants are lots of garlic and a good quality olive oil.

            I myself was not immune to this market-madness. I found myself buying a huge bag of spinach and then going to a friend’s garden to pick rhubarb. I stayed up until nearly midnight making several batches of phyllo appetizers for the freezer as well as rhubarb chutney. I fear that this is only the start of a long summer devoted to good eating.


 

Tidbit

Having all that fresh basil is wonderful for the summer, but what do you do come fall? Italian cooks will store tightly packed basil leaves in sterilized jars, lightly salted and covered with olive oil, then refrigerated for use in the winter. Basil can also be puréed in a small amount of water and frozen in ice cube trays; the cubes then stored in plastic bags until required. Not quite the glory of using fresh from the garden, but it will work in a pinch.