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The Seductive Pomegranate

Each of us has a trigger that prompts our fondest fall memories to return.  For many, it is the turning of the leaves; for others it is the sight of orange and yellow squash. For some it may just be the appearance of Halloween candy in the stores.  My trigger is the arrival of pomegranates in the grocery store.  I have always associated their appearance with Thanksgiving & Halloween, although pomegranates never played a role in either actual celebration while I was growing up.

I can remember going to the grocery store with Mom in October, and seeing these leathery, red, exotic fruits, usually in a display near the squash, pumpkins and candied apple supplies.  Dad would occasionally bring us one or two home from Detroit where he worked. I suppose that they were more readily available there than in our small town.  I do remember them as being very expensive and considered a rare treat.  I would spend hours breaking one fruit apart, getting excited if I could get one large cluster of juicy seeds in a single bite.  I never minded crunching on the little seeds.  I have always known that sometimes you have to take the bitter with the sweet!

These days, pomegranates are more available and affordable.  Just as we have come to accept the availability of tropical fruits such as kiwi and papaya, and the presence all year of fruits & vegetables such as watermelon and corn-on-the-cob that we used to get only Ain season@, we are not surprised to find pomegranates at our local grocer.  But the best thing about this fruit, is that we have not become jaded by its presence all year: it is still very much a seasonal fruit, and is still able to represent a particular time of year for me and instil a sense of nostalgia.                        

The pomegranate has played a seductive and romantic role throughout history.  Its name comes from the Latin Pomum granatum, which means “apple of many seeds”. Deciphered Egyptian hieroglyphics dating back from 1567 BC relate poems exalting the fruit, and the ancient Greeks consider the pomegranate an integral part of their tale of Persephone and her mother Demeter, goddess of nature.  When Pluto abducted Persephone, Zeus interceded and demanded that he return Persephone to earth as long as she hadn’t eaten anything.  Unfortunately, she had eaten six pomegranate seeds, so a compromise had to be reached: she could only return for six months and had to spend the other six in Hades.  Demeter still had the last word; she created six months of winter and six months of summer.  It is this association of the pomegranate with death and rebirth that later made it a Christian symbol of Resurrection.  In Judaism, the pomegranate is a symbol of fertility, relating to the first commandment of the Torah, to be fruitful and multiply.  In Arabic folklore and poetry, it is a symbol for the female breast, and in modern Greece, pomegranates represent agatha, the good things of life.

The pomegranate is a native of the Persia/Central Asia area, but spread in ancient times to the Mediterranean region.  It is widely cultivated in India, the East Indies and tropical Africa.  The tree was introduced into California by Spanish settlers in 1769 and is now grown in the drier parts of California and Arizona.  The fruit are available in October and November.

A perfect fruit should have an un-bruised skin with a bright red or dark pink colouring.  Choose fruit that are heaviest for their size.  They can be refrigerated for up to 2 months, but will only keep for a few days at room temperature.  The seeds will keep very well in a plastic container in the freezer.  Pomegranates are rich in potassium and a good source of vitamin C.

Perhaps the pomegranate’s reputation as the seductive fruit comes from the fact that the sweet berries are so difficult to obtain; you really have to crave the rich, red seeds to spend the time needed to get them out. It is no wonder that this fruit also has the reputation as being Nature’s most labour-intensive fruit. I have read several suggestions for getting at the rich berries easier.  Most agree that you should start by cutting off the stem end, then scoring the skin from end to end with 4 cuts.  Immerse the fruit in a bowl of water, then pull it apart and rub the seeds free.  The skin and most of the membrane will float while the seeds will sink.  Many recipes call for using the juice or a syrup made from the juice.  The fruit can be juiced by cutting it in half and using a traditional hand juicer, or , after first warming the fruit slightly, roll it in your hands to soften the interior, then cut a hole in the stem end.  Place the fruit on a plate, squeezing it occasionally to get out all of the juice.

The juice can be used to make jellies, sorbets, hot sauces or wine.  The seeds make a beautiful and tasty garnish for many meat and salad dishes, and I have found a great recipe for a salsa.  Grenadine, a syrup used in drink mixes (eg Singapore Slings) used to be made of pomegranate juice, but today, it is largely made of simple syrup and food colouring.

I have tried to pass along some of my family traditions to my kids, and one of them is buying them pomegranates when they first appear in the stores.  I hope that they will always associate the fruit with beautiful autumn days, turkey and pumpkin pies, and, of course, Halloween.


 

Tidbit

Pomegranates make a beautiful fall table display, but if you want them to last for any length of time, and you don’t intend to eat them, spray them with a light coating of any clear protective finish, then, after this has dried, poke a few pin holes through the rind to allow the insides to dry out.