With the trend towards gustier, more robust flavours, there is also a return to the perhaps forgotten or under-utilized, stronger flavoured herbs. It’s time to consider sage as something more than an anonymous ingredient in the ubiquitous Italian and poultry dried herb mixtures. It deserves to shine all on its own.

            Sage probably earned its place in the kitchen due to its medicinal properties, more than for its flavour. The English name for the herb is derived from its Latin name, salvia, which stems from the word salvus: “safe; in good health.” Sage is a member of the mint family and as with all the mint family, was used extensively in herbal medicine for its digestive properties. 

Fatty meats such as pork and duck were often stuffed with the leaves of the plant to aid in their digestion. This use of sage is seen throughout Europe where German sausages and French pâtés often contain sage. The association of the sage flavour with stuffing continues today as seen in dried poultry seasoning mixtures that contain sage, thyme, marjoram and often rosemary.

            Sage has a strong; some say sour, flavour and many find it unpleasant. In Mediterranean countries, where it is a native plant, sage is deeply imbedded in the traditional regional cuisines. Nowhere is the use of sage more prominent than the country that epitomizes gusto, Italy, where it is a common flavouring for soups, pizza toppings, pasta sauces, cheeses, and many meat dishes. It is often combined with marjoram, oregano and rosemary, all distinctive flavours. No one could ever accuse Italian cuisine of being bland. In one of Italy’s most famous dishes, Veal Saltimbocca alla Romana, veal medallions are wrapped around prosciutto and sage leaves. In this recipe, the sage serves to add flavour to the rather insipid veal. Even one of Italy’s favourite beverages, vermouth, is flavoured with the herb, which makes sweet vermouth a natural addition to any stuffing mixture.

            I had read somewhere that because dried sage has a stronger, mustier flavour than fresh, you shouldn’t substitute it in a recipe, and so when Jordan decided to make a pork roast stuffed with sage and apple, I went on a search for some fresh sage. I found it after several attempts and decided then that sage would be a good addition to our herb garden come planting season.   

Anyone who has gone to a garden centre lately knows that there are many varieties of the plant. They vary in colour, size, and aroma and are often grown purely as ornamentals. All of the sages are useful in cooking to varying degrees and for different purposes. The sage most familiar to us is Salvia officinalis, or Common sage. There are also several sage varieties available from Central America. These sages often have a sweet, fruity flavour. Pineapple sage is just one of these. It is often used as an ornamental in the garden because of its attractive flowers, but it can also be used to make a refreshing tisane or flavouring for puddings and fruit salads

I bought a healthy Common sage with lovely grey-green leaves covered in soft down. The violet-blue flowers are not surprisingly like those of the lavender I have planted next to it; they are closely related. And just as lavender can be used in cooking, sage can be used in the linen drawer to keep away moths.

Belatedly, I discovered that I already had a sage growing in a recovering pot, a variety of Common sage called Golden. This is why I always keep those plastic name tags beside my plants, even if some people think it looks tacky. The Golden sage has small, pretty, yellow and green variegated leaves, but after tasting it, I’ve decided that I will keep it just for garnish; it definitely has a more “medicinal” flavour than my new sage.

Besides its use for digestion, sage was once used to treat nervous anxiety, improve circulation, prevent excess perspiration, cure liver complaints, and even get rid of dandruff. In herbal medicine today it is used most often for its antiseptic properties, which makes it a good gargle for sore throats and a mouthwash to freshen breath and heal sore gums.

It also has pesticide properties. Sage seems to be immune to many pests itself and growing sage may keep pests like cabbage worms and maggots out of your garden. Some gardeners will grow pots of sage that can be moved around the garden as needed.

So, there you go, probably one of the most useful plants you can grow. Now if it would just keep the deer away, it would be perfect.