
Spelt
Just two weeks ago, if you had asked me what Spelt or Farro were, I would have been stumped. In fact, after seeing a photo of roasted chicken nestled in a bed of Farro, on the cover of the February “Food & Wine”, I went in search of the answer, and ran into walls. Even our chef didn’t know, and all of our usual reference texts drew a blank. I even tried the old-fashioned method of looking in an encyclopaedia. Nothing! Jordan told me to forget about it, but that just made me more insistent.
Last weekend, we were in Harvest Thyme, and I found spelt flour and bread products made with spelt. I knew that there must be information on this grain out there somewhere, and I finally went to the internet and typed in “spelt”. I must have gotten at least 100 results, including the spelt web-page: www.spelt.com. Last night I took a trip to the health food store I frequent here in Calgary, and suddenly, row upon row of spelt products appeared before my eyes. There were huge displays of cookies, chips, cereals, bagels & buns, pizza crusts & pastas, all made with spelt. In fact, as I am writing this, I am munching on a spelt gingerbread cookie. I took a trip immediately after and looked in the natural food section of my local Safeway, and again I was surprised to see several spelt products even there. I also started noticing the variety of products made with Kamut, Amaranth, and Quinoa, other Ancient grains. I was starting to wonder if in just the past 2 weeks there was suddenly an invasion of spelt? Probably not, but it is similar to buying a new car and instantly, it seems as though every other car is the same make and colour as yours.
I was not half wrong. After researching this grain, I have found that it had disappeared from the shelves of North America after the 1920's. It has only been in the past 10 years that organic farmers have started bringing back the grains, collectively know as Ancient Grains. Spelt (Triticum Spelta) has been grown since 5000 BC in the area we now know as Iran. It was spread throughout Europe by the westward migration of early civilizations, and remained the chief source of flour in the world until 1920, when it’s use declined dramatically, and the wheat we know best today, Triticum aestivum, took over. The grain has remained popular in Europe, where it is known as Farro in Italy, and Dinkle in Germany. Farro is still used to make pizza crusts and cakes, and the Germans make a “dinkel” lager, and use the flour to make pretzels. It is often referred to as “German Wheat” in North America due to its association with the Pennsylvania Dutch who continue to grow the grain.
If you look at the nutritional aspects of the grain, you have to wonder just what happened to it. Two ounces of spelt contain 10 grams of protein; the same portion of white wheat flour contains 2.74 grams. The same portion of spelt contains 5.7 grams of fiber; white wheat flour less than 1.8 grams. Spelt contains special carbohydrates (Mucopolysaccharides) which are important as a blood clotting factor and are known to stimulate our immune system and it also contains large amounts of B complex vitamins. The sturdy husk of the kernel protects it from pollutants and insects, lending itself to organic production. The husk also enhances the kernel’s retention of nutrients and improves freshness. In fact, spelt was less affected by Chernobyl’s fall-out than any other crop. The flavour is far more robust and best described as nutty. Finally, spelt has a high water solubility which allows its nutrients to be absorbed by the body better. The added advantage to this is that although spelt does contain gluten ( lower amounts than in wheat flour), it tends to be more digestible, even for those who are gluten-sensitive. People with diagnosed wheat gluten allergies may find that they are not allergic to the gluten in spelt, but they should have this tested by their allergist. Of those who have a gluten intolerance such as Celiac, many have reported positive results eating spelt, although because there are so many degrees of severity in gluten sensitivity, anyone with Celiac should approach spelt with initial caution.
With all of these positive aspects, you have to wonder why spelt almost totally disappeared from the North American food scene. It is estimated that in 1910 there were 600, 000 acres of spelt harvested in the US alone. In the 1970's there were almost none. The answer, according to what I have read is: “Agribusiness”. Wheat loses its husk during the harvesting or threshing process. Spelt does not, and it requires 2 separate grindings to process. Modern wheat has been bred to be easier to grow and harvest, to increase yield, and to have a high gluten content, important in high-volume commercial baked goods. The danger inherent in reducing our variety of grains to only a few is that we can become sensitized to foods that we are overexposed to. While many people have gluten-allergies due to genetic causes, there are many more people who have developed a sensitivity to gluten over time and constant exposure to the same product. Biodiversity is important. Of over 20,000 edible plant species known, only a handful are actually being cultivated. Just think of the Irish potato famine. An entire culture was dependent on one crop and they were devastated when it failed.
If my recent trip to the grocery store is any indication, we appear to be headed in the right direction towards this diversity. The voices of the grass-root movement are apparently being heard in the boardrooms.
For more information on the ancient grains and spelt recipes, try the following 2 web sites: www.purityfoods.com & www.spelt.com