How do those guys do it? How in the world do scientists ever come across cures for present-day ailments from obscure plants and herbs? I think they secretly must all keep a copy of Culpeper’s Herbal under their pillow.

The latest wonder-spice is star anise, source of the drug Tamiflu, currently the only known drug to alleviate (not prevent) the symptoms of Asian bird flu. I am seriously looking at that jar I have in my spice cupboard right now and wonder if it could be my “649”?

Star Anise—correctly pronounced “Ann-us”—is the dried seed pod of a small evergreen tree native to China, Illicium verum. It is a member of the magnolia family, the same family as nutmeg.

For thousands of years it was primarily restricted to the cooking of China, and Vietnam. The same aromatic compound, anethole, that gives the unrelated fennel and anise their delicate licorice flavour is found in star anise but in far more concentrated amounts.  Star anise has a much headier, almost vanilla-sweet aroma than either fennel or anise.

The star-shaped seedpod of star anise can have as many as ten points, each containing a single, shiny, butterscotch coloured seed. The flavour component is most concentrated in the woody seed pod. The pod with its seeds is often left whole for simmering in stews and soups, or is ground into a powder, often used as one of the five spices in 5-spice powder, along with cassia, clove, fennel, and Szechuan pepper.

In China, 5-spice is the all-purpose seasoning for many of the rich, soy-sweet, braised meat dishes and stir fires. It is a primary seasoning for duck, and 5-spice ribs are a standard in Chinese’s cooking.

The popular Chinese beverage, Chai, is made with whole star anise, clove, cardamom, ginger, and cinnamon, infused in the tea and strained before serving.

Star anise is also a traditional incense burned in the temples of China.

The French, Italians, and Greeks use fennel and aniseed in much of their cuisine, especially in breads and cookies, and the essence is perhaps best known for its flavouring of liqueurs such as Pernod, anisette, and ouzo. Because the anethole is so much more concentrated in star anise, it had become common for these beverages to be made with the cheaper (until now) star anise extract. With the discovery of Tamiflu, the cost of star anise has risen astronomically, and this source has virtually been depleted.

From a medicinal stand-point, considering all the attention now, star anise, like fennel and anise, was always primarily considered an aid to digestion. Syrups made with anethole (also sometimes referred to as Oil of Anise) have been used to ease colic and also bronchial congestion. The seed is also chewed to freshen breath.It was never considered of benefit for flu.

The component in star anise that is the precursor for Tamiflu is one that is found in all plants: Shikimic acid. It is the result of an important pathway in plants to produce essential amino acids. The frighteningly effective weed killer Round-up works by blocking this pathway in plants. Shikimic acid is not a new discovery; over many years, scientists have used this component to produce a wide range of other products such as vanillin (the flavouring agent), salicylic acid (aspirin), and components used in sunscreens. There have been many other promising anti-viral and cancer applications as well.

But don’t think that by simply drinking a cup of Chai you will suddenly be protected from avian flu. The production of the anti-viral drug from Shikimic acid involves a series of complex reactions that is said to take up to a year, and includes one step that is highly explosive. Only a few labs in the world are approved to do this process. Huge amounts of seed are required, and they can only be harvested from March to May. Although now grown in other areas of the world such as the Philippines and Jamaica, the seed of the plant grown in four provinces of China are considered the best source: something in the soil?

It takes up to six years for a new tree to produce fruits, and by that time, the viruses causing the current strain of bird flu will be long-mutated. There have been attempts to synthesize the precursor, Shikimic acid, but this has not been economically successful. Needless to say; star anise is a hot commodity right now.

So, back to my little jar; I guess I should use it wisely, but then I am usually quite stingy with it. It is an overpowering flavour and you could get sick of it if used too often. A pinch is usually enough. The best way to purchase star anise is whole. This gives you the option to grind it as needed. I like adding it to curries and rice dishes. I use the whole seed for soups and it is particularly yummy in mussels cooked in coconut milk. It is a perfect seasoning for rich, pumpkin or carrot soups, and many tomato soup recipes call for star anise.

I might just use a bit more star anise in the next few weeks, just in case there is any residual benefit to ward off the flu!