Perhaps I should just change the name of this column to “Jordan’s Kitchen.” Lately it seems as though he has taken over, what with his current obsession for pesto and the kudos for his sage-stuffed pork loin. And recently, another of his trademark dishes, tomatillo salsa and grilled halibut, is starting to get in my way. It’s getting so that I almost need to book time in my own kitchen!

            The tomatillo, also known as a husk tomato, Mexican green tomato, or Chinese lantern, is the principal ingredient in salsa verde (green sauce), one of the most predominant salsa cruda (uncooked sauces) in Mexican cooking. The tomatillo belongs to the Physalis genus, a genus closely related to the tomatoes. The Physalis all have one very distinguishing characteristic; when ripe, the calyx of the flower covers the fruit inside forming a papery husk that looks like an Oriental paper lantern.

Not so long ago, the tomatillo could only be found in its native Mexico where it has been an important food from the time of the Aztecs. You could also find it in a Mexican speciality food store, if you were fortunate enough to have one in your town. With the expanding popularity of Mexican and Southwestern cuisines, the tomatillo has now invaded mainstream produce sections across North America, leaving many customers wondering just what to do with them. Jordan and I, coming from that hotbed of Southwestern cooking in the Great White North, Calgary, and also survivors of too many Stampedes, have had more than a passing fling with the tomatillo.

A tomatillo is generally used before it ripens, while it is still a pale yellowish-green colour. Once the husk is removed, it looks very much like a green tomato, which is why many people still think that salsa verde is made from your regular, garden-variety un-ripened tomato. It can be in a pinch, but to get an authentic sauce, the tart lemony-apple flavour of a tomatillo is required. If the tomatillo is left on the plant to ripen, it will turn purple and become sweeter; still edible but obviously no longer suitable for making salsa verde. The tomatillo can also be used sliced in salads and as garnish for other cold dishes.

            You might be more familiar with two other plants from this genus. The first of these is the Cape gooseberry. This is not the same green gooseberry used for making jams or that you find in a can of fruit cocktail. When ripe, this berry turns a bright yellowy-orange colour, and with its papery husk still attached, it is very attractive and has become the garnish du jour in the food industry. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t think to eat the fruit. It has a bittersweet flavour that those who do try, really enjoy. This member of the Physalis genus is also sometimes called a Chinese lantern, not to be confused with the tomatillo or the other Physalis that I have always know as the Chinese lantern.

            You have likely all at one time or another seen this Chinese lantern plant, either fresh or dried, in a florist shop. Unlike the suspiciously green, blue, and orange mums you sometimes find there, these vivid orange husks are all natural. I once grew one of these purely ornamental Physalis in my garden and I was ecstatic when it produced several orange “lanterns.” I waited patiently until I thought they were at their peak, only to go out one morning to discover that someone or something had absconded with my prizes. Boy, was I miffed!

            The first step in making a good salsa is getting past the belief that salsa is a generic term for that red relish lining too many shelves at every grocery store, often located near an entire aisle of tortilla chips. To explore the full range of this condiment, you really need to experiment at home.  

            “Tomato” is not a synonym for “salsa”; any fresh fruit or even vegetable can be used. One of the tastiest I have made myself is with freshly picked blackberries, but strawberries, blueberries, salmonberries, peaches, red, yellow and orange peppers, roasted corn, or any combination of these, can be used to make salsa. Because above all, salsa should look as festive as it tastes.

             Jordan prefers his salsa chunky, and so with a good chef’s knife, he chops and dices tomatillo, red tomato, red onion, jalapeno (I warned him to wear gloves!), and cilantro. With a pinch of salt and pepper, and a good squeeze of fresh lime juice, his salsa is ready to top freshly grilled halibut, or any other white fish, seafood, or chicken dish.

            Perhaps for Father’s Day, as a special treat, I’ll let Jordan have the kitchen all to himself, and promise not to complain about the mess. That’s how I like my men; barefoot and in the kitchen!